How To Stop Oil Burning In Your Car, Truck, Boat Or Tractor! Keep Old Cars Running Long Past Their Prime

How To Stop Oil Burning In Your Car, Truck, Boat Or Tractor! Keep Old Cars Running Long Past Their Prime

Thanks for ordering this report. It was a wise decision. Now, in

all probability, you won't have to junk that "old friend". You

won't have to pay $500 to $740 for major repairs or a new

engine. You're about to discover an amazingly easy, economical

and effective way to stop your car or truck from burning oil; to

restore compression and end plug fouling!

Before getting down to the "1-2-3's", let be tell you about my

experience and what led to the publishing of this little-known

information.

Less than a year ago I bought a "cherry" 1967 Chevy half-ton - a

one owner Camper Special that had always been garaged and used

solely for recreation. The chrome glistened, the upholstery

looked new. The original paint still gleamed with nary a dent or

ding. It had all the "goodies" - air conditioning, tranny

cooler, even a 110 volt converter for powering appliances while

camping.

The odometer read 68,678 miles, and as wear was minimal on the

brake and accelerator pedals, I believed the numbers. The owner

was buying a new truck and asked only $850. I promptly paid

without quibbling, figuring I had a real buy. Drove my bargain

about 600 miles and it used very little oil. But, the engine was

running a bit rough. Time for a tune-up.

The analyser showed average-good compression except for one

"low" cylinder. "You're getting close to 70,000 miles," the

mechanic remarked, "and about due for a valve job. It's a good

investment for a truck in this shape." I agreed.

Paid him $150 for the valve job and the fun began. For the first

20-30 miles I rejoiced in my "new truck" smoothness and power.

Then, I noticed that I was being followed - by billowing clouds

of blue-gray smoke! I went back to the shop. Carburetor may be

out of adjustment? No such luck. That smoke was burning oil. The

mechanic stared at the engine and scratched his head. Finally,

he pointed at the 110 volt converter. "I got a feeling," he

said, "that there is the culprit. Your engine's got a lot more

miles on it than you think. They guy you bought it from probably

ran the engine plenty while the truck sat, generating juice for

his TV, lights, chain saw, you name it."

What happened was, the increased compression resulting from the

valve job, forced the oil past the worn rings, creating a real

"Old Smokey!" Drove it that way for a few weeks, but I was

burning a quart of costly oil every 200 miles and getting

cross-eyed, looking for (and trying to avoid) cop cars. The

plugs fouled so fast that the whole rig shuddered and bucked

like a goosed bronco, just a few miles after installing a fresh

start.

In short, I was in the position you are now... owning a

basically good vehicle you want to keep. I, too, was unwilling

to pay the cost of the usual remedy, or buy a new car or truck

at today's inflated prices. Like you've probably done, I went to

an auto supply store and wistfully read the labels on additive

cans that promised to stop oil burning. Picked one up and walked

over to the clerk.

"This stuff any good?" I asked. He, more honest than sales

oriented, replied: "Dunno. Never heard of it really working." I

walked out without buying.

Couple of days later, trailing my usual cloud of smoke, I

stopped at a small gas station-garage at the edge of town. The

owner, a thin elderly fellow in grease-splotched bib coveralls,

walked over while I was hosing-in gas.

"Nice lookin truck," he commented. I nodded. "Saw your smoke,'"

he added. "Thinkin of rebuildin the engine?" I replaced the hose

in the pump and turned around. "Maybe later," I shrugged,

figuring he was trying to drum up some business. "Costs too damn

much."

He grinned. "Twenty bucks sit favorable?"

"For what?"

"Fixin what's wrong. Go get a cup of coffee down the street.

It'll be in good shape when you get back."

"You've got to be kidding!"

He wasn't. Told me he had been a mechanic for nearly 40 years

and had rebuilt countless engines. But, for the past year or so,

since learning of a new product and devising his own technique

for using it, he wasn't doing much rebuilding. "Gettin too old,"

he complained, "to keep tearin engines down and puttin em back

together."

Twenty minutes later, I drove out "memorizing" some

instructions. My smoke plume soon disappeared and the engine ran

progressively better. Almost immediately oil consumption and

plug fouling stopped. Today, nearly 15,000 miles later, I still

don't add oil between changes and you never heard a better

running old truck! Now, here's the "Secret Technique" that

venerable master mechanic revealed to me, which you can easily

do yourself:-

First, check for and correct any oil leaks around valve covers

and oil pan. Tightening bolts may do the trick. If not, install

new gaskets or have the work done. (This procedure won't stop

leaks.) If front or rear engine-bearing seals leak, add a can of

"Bearing Seal Additive" after Step #2. Chances are it will stop

or vastly minimize the problem at low cost. (It did for me.)

Okay, here are the 3 Steps:-

1. Drain engine oil and replace oil filter. You've probably been

using a multi-grade 10-30 or 10-40 weight oil. Or a straight 30

weight oil. Regardless, replace that oil with one grade heavier,

single-weight of oil. During warm months, use 40 weight; in the

winter (depending on how far the mercury dips in your part of

the country) use 20 or 30 weight. Slightly thicker oil won't

hurt that worn engine, and if your battery is good, it'll turn

over fast.

2. Add two cans (30 ounces) of Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning,

which replaces one quart of the oil you would normally use

during an oil change. (If capacity with new filter is less than

5 quarts, use one can of the Alemite.)

3. Drive vehicle at town-speed, 20 to 35 miles per hour, for at

least 50 miles (a 100 mile distance is better), before opening

it up to expressway speeds. That's all there is to it!

Steps #1 and #3 are the real secret, assuring success when the

"usual" additive treatment helps little if at all. Here's why,

as my mechanic friend explained it to me:-

The Alemite contains a substance that builds-up between ring and

cylinder wall, forming a tough, long-lasting seal. Problem is,

standard 30 weight (in moderate clime) and multi-grade oils are

too thin; they don't have sufficient "body" to prevent most of

the sealer from blowing past rings BEFORE it can do its job. A

heavier, single weight oil retards the blow-by and speeds-up the

seal formation.

Driving at moderate speed for the first 50 miles or so, also

helps accomplish fast seal build-up. Use a heavy foot on the

accelerator immediately after treatment, and the fast-moving

pistons pump much of the oil and sealer out the tail pipe.

The sealing compound, after setting-up, isn't as hard as steel.

So, to prevent seal from deteriorating, add one can of the

Alemite when changing oil thereafter. You might get away with

going back to a thinner or multi-grade oil. But, why bother

changing a winning combination!

My success wasn't a "fluke" or something possible only with my

type or make of vehicle! I was so delighted with results that I

talked a friend into trying the same remedy. He owned a 1976

Pontiac Grand Prix, a real "Oilcoholic" with more than 120,000

miles of hard driving and lousy maintenance. He dropped from an

oil consumption of a quart every 300 miles, to zero oil burning.

One of his co-workers, impressed with the "born-again behemoth",

bought a clean classic - a '65 Mustang Fastback with a real

tired engine - for very little money. Using this procedure, he

sold it at a handsome profit!

Soon, as the good news spread, I received reports of many

successful applications - on foreign and domestic four-bangers,

boats, even a couple of diesel-powered farm tractors. That's

when I decided to advertise this "know-how" in a small way.

Incidentally, I have no connection with the Alemite company, nor

is this report based on any "lab tests". All I know is that this

method worked great for me, my friends, their friends, and a

bunch of others. I can't see that there's any "risk" involved,

but my lawyer insists I put this in:- The Seller of this

information assumes no liability or responsibility for any

vehicle damage resulting from the use of said information,

because of factors beyond Seller's control. Use at your own

risk."

Look at it this way. You didn't pay $3 for a "testimonial." You

invested a small amount for information that can save you

hundreds of dollars. Your present car or truck can now provide

you with many months, or even years, of additional service...

postpone the need to buy a new vehicle, for a long time to come.

Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning usually retails for around $2.25

per 15 ounce can; Engine Bearin' Seal, for about $2.50 for 15

ounces. Both products are widely sold at supermarkets and of

course, auto supply stores.